Christopher Somerville

First published in: The Times Click here to view a map for this walk in a new window


At Victoria Bridge near the Inveroran Hotel a cuckoo was calling from the trees by the river. A still afternoon, perfect for the hatching of the first hungry midges of the season. I sprayed on Smidge, and set out across Rannoch Moor to trace the faint and mysterious thoroughfare known as the old military road.

Rannoch Moor, a great expanse of unbroken blanket bog, loch and rough heather plateau, is one of the wildest places in Scotland. Major William Caulfeild supervised the building of the road across the waste in two summers, 1751 and 1752. The English were not exactly welcome hereabouts, and three soldiers had to keep guard against ambush for every squaddie labouring with pick and shovel on the road itself.

Nowadays Caulfeild’s road has been more or less absorbed back into the moor grass, bog and heather. I had to get my eye in, letting my gaze roam across apparently trackless moor until it snagged on a darker groove in the grass, or caught the faint curve of an embankment.

The old military road is a well-engineered ‘wild road’, running in long straight stretches with occasional deviations. The cuttings are supported with stone walling and there are frequent side scoops showing where the soldiers quarried the rocks and pebbles needed for the road.

Across the wilderness of the moor I followed the old military road. Direction-finding was helped by a series of sighting stones on successive skylines. Sprays of blotched leaves as slim as penknife blades showed where heath spotted orchids would be blooming come full summer.

At a block of forestry the character of the old military road changed from an open moorland track to a black peat slutch, both sticky and slippery. But there was better walking in the valley below for the homeward trudge.

Thomas Telford built a new road across Rannoch Moor, now the route of the West Highland Way, early in the nineteenth century – a proper level road, broad and stone-surfaced, crossing streams and rivers by solid stone bridges. By then William Caulfeild’s old route was already half reabsorbed into the moor. I squelched down to the West Highland Way, bog-hopping and stream-scrambling, and turned for home along its cobbled roadway. Wood anemones along the roadside were shutting their petals for the night, and the mountains to the east stood in soft evening sunshine, their high corries shining.

How hard is it? 6½ miles; easy gradient; moorland path, then cobbled track. NB An adventurous walk in a wild place. Not recommended in mist. Old Military Road/OMR is squelchy underfoot. Also faintly marked in places; use a good GPS or map/compass. Look for occasional, prominent marker stones on skyline.

Start: Victoria Bridge car park, Inveroran Hotel, near Bridge of Orchy PA36 4AU approx. (OS ref NN 271418)

Getting there: Signed off A82 at Bridge of Orchy station.

Walk (OS Explorer 377): Left along road; cross bridge. Just before Forest Lodge, left along drive (272421; ‘Loch Etive by Glen Kinglass’). At end of trees, right along forest edge. In 250m, OMR veers left away from trees (271424), aiming for right-hand slope of Stob a’Choire Odhair. In 600m, when almost level with top of forestry on left, OMR swings right (271430). In ¾ mile, after crossing Easan Dubh, OMR bends right (276442). In 1 mile OMR reaches forestry on right (282456). Follow fence; in 500m it bends right (281461). Follow it across several streams to West Highland Way (283462); right for 3 miles to car park.

Lunch/Accommodation: Inveroran Hotel, Bridge of Orchy PA36 4AQ (01838-400250, inveroran.com)

Info: visitscotland.com; ancientmonuments.uk; roads.org.uk

First published in: The Times Click here to view a map for this walk in a new window


It was a glorious sunny morning in the Oxfordshire Chilterns, with a slight nip in the air and the prospect of a day’s unbroken blue sky. A green woodpecker’s cackle followed us down the lane.

Behind a screen of trees stood the ruin of St James’s Church, its narrow Romanesque windows blank and open to the wind, Saxon doorway arches rising from a nave strewn with nettles. Fat 18th-century brick buttresses bore witness to the centuries-old struggle to prevent the church collapsing before its final closure in 1874.

From the church the rutted track of the Chiltern Way Extension bore away west between flinty fields and among the beech trees of Wellgrove Wood. Strong sunlight silvered the beech trunks and cast a green glow on box bushes, but nothing could penetrate the pink-grey gloom of the yew grove on the slope before Nettlebed.

A lively place, Nettlebed, a village of immaculate houses and gardens, with a famous folk club whose fixture list reads like a Who’s Who of musical heroes.

This area of the Chilterns is a patchwork of farmland and woods interspersed with old stretches of common land, some still carefully tended by people who enjoy common rights, others neglected and run wild. Primroses and cowslips grew in the mossy verges of Nettlebed Common, where a tree creeper scuttled up a beech tree with bowed back and bent head, intent on levering insects out of hiding with its sharp hooked beak.

There were bluebells under the trees of Berrick Trench, and a dark-edged bee-fly, like a bee with a long sharp proboscis, busy pollinating the primroses. Steeply up to the grassy saddle of Russell’s Water Common, and then down through the quiet glades and flowering slopes of Warburg Nature Reserve.

Warburg is an absolute jewel in the Chiltern crown, a clutch of sheltered chalk valleys where orchids flourish, rare gentians bloom in autumn, and herb paris with its sinister black whiskers grows under the trees in spring. The three Wildlife Trust members we met were installing deer fencing; they had been coppicing and weaving hazel hedges earlier in the week. Such voluntary labour and skill safeguards and enhances this wonderful remote spot.

How hard is it? 6 miles; easy; field and woodland paths

Start: Warburg Nature Reserve car park, Bix Bottom, RG9 6BL (OS ref SU 721878)

Getting there: From A4130 (Wallingford-Henley) to Bix village (signed). Left along Rectory Lane; follow ‘Bix Bottom’, then ‘Warburg Reserve’.

Walk: Back along road to pass St James’s Church ruin (727869); right (‘Crocker End’) for 1 mile to Crocker End (711868). Ahead along road, then left side of green for ⅓ mile to road (706868). Ahead into Nettlebed. Right along Watlington Street (702867); in 100m fork right (Mill Road). At electricity substation (703872) left into trees. Follow white arrows to 2 houses (703876). Right before first one (yellow arrow/YA). In field beyond pond, half left to gate (704880, YA). Ahead through trees. At Westwood Manor Farm, cross byway (708883, YAs); across hill to metal gate (708887, YA). Through trees; across byway (708889); right up hill (kissing gate/KG, YA) to road (711890). Right past 5 Horseshoes, then Russell’s Water Common. At left bend, ahead (718886) beside hedge, then along track. Opposite Lodge Farm Cottage, right on track (723882, unmarked). In 25m, left (KG, YA, ‘Nature Reserve’). In 400m at gate, ahead (722881) downhill to car park.

Lunch: 5 Horseshoes, Maidensgrove RG9 6EX (01491-641282, thefivehorseshoes.co.uk) – closed Mon, Tue.

Accommodation: White Hart, Nettlebed RG9 5DD (01491-641245, thewh.co.uk)

Info: Warburg Nature Reserve (01491-642001, bbowt.org.uk); nettlebedfolkclub.co.uk

First published in: The Times Click here to view a map for this walk in a new window


The friendly and hospitable Forest View inn at Byrness lies in a wild corner of the Cheviot Hills. From the forestry hamlet I followed the Pennine Way up through the trees, and soon turned off on a forest byway that dipped to the lonely valley of Cottonshope.

By the road I found a red flag fluttering and a notice warning of live firing on the adjacent Otterburn Ranges. But a call to Range Control elicited a courteous ‘That’ll be ok today, they won’t be over your way at all.’ A rattle of machine gun fire and the pop of a rifle sounded occasionally from some far-off valley, interspersed every now and then with artillery fire much further away, a curiously feeble and hollow sound, like a giant punching an empty biscuit tin.

I walked up the road to the lonely farm of Cottonshope, where a faint path climbed through rough grass pastures, swerving in and out of the boundary of Otterburn Ranges, up to meet the Pennine Way on Raven’s Knowe.

What a splendid view from the cairn up here. To the northeast the rounded bulk of Cheviot lifting gently to the cloudy sky, the flanks rolling and tumbling down to where I stood. South and west, lower ground with hills and forests running to the Scottish border. To the east, the barely perceptible path up which I’d come falling away into the Cottonshope Valley. South from Raven’s Knowe it was all forest, great swathes of the coniferous cladding that has adhered to the Redesdale hills since the area was planted between the world wars of the last century.

I turned for home along the boardwalks and squelchy corners of the Pennine Way, accompanied by a flittering meadow pipit. Catcleugh Reservoir came into view, a wedge of steely water among the trees. The Pennine Way descended among tuffets of bilberry and sphagnum, before suddenly slanting precipitously down a staircase of rocks.

Down in Byrness the little Church of St Francis held a stained glass window in memory of those who died constructing Catcleugh Reservoir late in the 19th century. It depicted men labouring with pick, shovel and wheelbarrow, with a little girl seated at their feet. In the background a dark, ominous train bears down on them. A very poignant and touching memorial.

How hard is it? 7½ miles; moderate/strenuous; forest and moorland tracks on well-marked Pennine Way.
NB Between Cottonshope and Raven’s Knowe, path veers in and out of Otterburn Ranges boundary. Ranges may be closed if live firing; ring Range Control (01830-520569) before setting out.

Start: Otterburn Green, Byrness NE19 1TS (OS ref NT 764027)

Getting there: Bus 131 (Newcastle-Jedburgh), once a day – nexus.org.uk
Road – Byrness is on A68 Between Otterburn and Jedburgh.

Walk (OS Explorer OL16): From Forest View, right along Otterburn Green; past village hall and on. At A68, by church, left along cycleway (771023, ‘Pennine Way’/PW). In 50m cross A68 (take care!); left up path. In 100m, go through hedge (PW); on through gate into trees (769026); continue up PW. In ⅓ mile, at 3rd major crossing track, right off PW (773030). In ¾ mile, left along Cottonshope Road in valley bottom (773030). In 1½ miles, just past farm sheds, left up track beside range flagpole and notice (789049). Follow clearly seen route for 1¼ miles over moorland to cairn on Raven’s Knowe (781061). Left along Pennine Way for 2¾ miles back to A68; retrace steps to Byrness.

Lunch/Accommodation: Forest View Walkers Inn, Byrness NE19 1TS (07928-376677, fortestviewbyrness.co.uk) – open 12 April–8 October 2023

Info: Otterburn Ranges Range Control access info: 01830-520569;
gov.uk/government/publications/otterburn-firing-times

First published in: The Times Click here to view a map for this walk in a new window


‘Keep an eye out for the beavers,’ advised a man festooned with wildlife cameras whom we passed in the car park at Stodmarsh National Nature Reserve. ‘Lots of signs around – look for those toothmarks of theirs, eh?’

We didn’t see any of the recently reintroduced rodents on our walk round the East Kent reserve under cloudy winter skies. But evidence of their presence was widespread in the shape of young trees felled with a curious hinged effect, the severed parts gnawed white and smooth with fine patterns of chiselling by beaver incisors.

The first creature we did see was another species of aquatic rodent, a little grey-brown water vole scuttling along the bank of the Lampen Stream. We heard other voles too, plopping into ditches at our approach. So much of nature is secret, hidden or only momentarily glimpsed, especially in the ‘downtime’ of winter. But if you have an eye for the birds, Stodmarsh NNR is bursting with overt life, loud and proud.

In the still grey afternoon, perched in the Reedbed Hide, we looked out on a bay between enormous stretches of creamy-white reeds – the reserve has the largest area of reedbeds in the southeast of England. Shoveler drakes with snowy breasts and chestnut wings went dabbling beside their drab brown mates, their long spatulate bills giving them a solemn air of consequence. Among them swam teal with yellow flashes on their afterparts, and breasts very delicately patterned in ash-grey and black.

A sudden panic had them all dashing into mid-pool with agitated squawking and a might clatter of wings on water. What had caused the upheaval? ‘Probably a fox,’ grunted one of the twitchers from behind an immense telescopic lens. ‘Spooked ’em and scarpered’.

We followed a broad and muddy path north between reed pool, ditches and sodden green acres of freshwater marsh. Stodmarsh’s watery landscape was formed partly through subsidence of old mine workings below ground, a reminder of the now-vanished Kentish coalfield.

Seduction smells of Sunday roast emanated from the Grove Ferry Inn, where we turned back along the wide and muddy River Great Stour. An angler on the far bank hooked a roach and lifted it out, a wriggling strip of silver. We watched another hunter of the waterways, a big marsh harrier, cruising low above the reedbeds, looking for frogs or water voles.

The light began to seep out of the afternoon as we followed the homeward path, serenaded by the harsh pig-like screech and snuffle of a water rail creeping through the reeds, another winter sound of this magical place.

How hard is it? 4¾ miles; easy; flat walking, can be muddy. Bring binoculars!

Start: Stodmarsh NNR car park, near Canterbury CT3 4BB (OS ref TR 222609)

Getting there: Reserve is signed from A257 (Canterbury to Littlebourne).

Walk (OS Explorer 150): From bottom right corner of car park pass info board; follow track for ¼ mile to cross bridge to T-junction (223610). Left; follow ‘Reedbed Hide’ signs to hide (222612). Return to pass bridge (don’t cross); follow path (‘Footpath’, yellow arrows) past Undertrees Farm. In ¾ mile pass Marsh Hide (226618); in ½ mile dogleg right/left across track (233623, red arrow); follow ‘Grove Ferry car park’ signs for ⅔ mile to road (236630). Left (Grove Ferry Inn is opposite); in 40m, left (‘Stour Valley Walk’). Follow riverbank path. In 1½ miles path veers inland (221620); follow it past Tower Hide (222617), then follow signs to car park.

Lunch/Accommodation: Grove Ferry Inn, Upstreet, Canterbury CT3 4BP (01227-860302, groveferryinn.co.uk)

Info: Stodmarsh NNR – 0845-600-3078; explorekent.org

First published in: The Times Click here to view a map for this walk in a new window


If you were looking for a clutch of Cotswold villages that typified everything enticing about this part of the world, you could hardly do better than those that look into the Evenlode Valley between Stow-on-the-Wold and Chipping Norton.

Bledington is the perfect place to start, a collection of fine large houses and thatched cottages in the beautiful local stone that weathers to a rich creamy gold. From here our path ran across the wide fields of the vale, ribboning across the corrugations of medieval ridge-and-furrow.

We passed Gawcombe Farm’s scrubby preserves and followed a muddy green lane up to the neighbouring villages of Nether and Church Westcote. A blackbird sang for nesting time in the hedge at Church Westcote, then gave a chakker of alarm and fell silent as we passed.

Dark slaty blocks of cloud were slashed across great pillows of white on a pure blue field of sky. We passed through a plantation of young oak and silver birch, where stacks of abandoned logs gave off a fruity savour of damp moss and rot. Dogwood twigs glowed a brilliant crimson as the low afternoon sun glanced across them.

The mellow walls and gables of ancient Icomb Place stood ahead on the ridge. Beyond them we came to St Mary’s Church at Icomb, its tower topped with a little pitched roof of stone, as though a tiny house had been plonked on top. Inside, exquisitely worked hassocks lay ready for the knees of worshippers. One was embellished with birds we’d seen or heard today – chaffinch, tree creeper, nuthatch, goldfinch and wren.

Sir John Blaket lay recumbent in effigy, stone sollerets pointed like winklepickers, moustaches overflowing his helm, a martial hero of Agincourt. Less honourable residents of Icomb were the Dunsden brothers, the original Tom, Dick and Harry, highwaymen of the 18th century who ended their careers behind bars and dancing the hangman’s jig.

Out in the open air we descended from the ridge into the vale once more. The first skylark of the year poured out a silvery song high and invisible over a turnip field, and a black horse cantered neighing around its sunlit paddock as though injected with pure essence of the oncoming spring.

How hard is it? 7¼ miles; easy; field paths

Start: The Green, Bledington, Oxon OX7 6XQ (OS ref SP244227)

Getting there: Bus 802 (Kingham to Bourton)
Road: Bledington is on B4450 between Stow and Chipping Norton

Walk (OS Explorer OL45): Follow Church Street. Right beside church; follow ‘Oxfordshire Way’/OW signs. In 1 mile, left across footbridge (235221, yellow arrow/YA). Follow path (‘Diamond Way/DW on map) across fields. In ½ mile meet green lane (230214); left for ¾ mile to road at Nether Westcote (227203). Right; in 100m fork right down path (226203, fingerpost). In 50m fork left on path to Church Westcote. Right at road (221204) past post-box. At ‘Middlemarch’, right down track (220207); in 100m, left over stile (YA). Follow DW. In 200m into plantation (218209); keep ahead at fork (YA) and on. In ½ mile cross OW (216216); in ½ mile pass reservoir on right; in 50m fork left uphill (215223). In 30m, right (gate, YA) to Icomb Church (214226). Return along path and on. Approaching Middle Farm, left (217226, fingerpost) on path across fields. In ½ mile cross Lower Farm drive (225227) and on; in ½ mile, right down driveway (233229). In ½ mile at right bend, left (234221, kissing gate) on OW/DW to Bledington.

Lunch/Accommodation: King’s Head, Bledington OX7 6XQ (01608-658365, kingsheadinn.net); Feathered Nest, Nether Westcote OX7 6SD (01993-833030, thefeatherednestinn.co.uk)

Info: Stow-on-the-Wold TIC (01451-870998)