Two tiny terriers came barking to the fence of the Bull’s Head Inn at Craswall as we pulled on our boots in the lane.
First published in: The Times Click here to view a map for this walk in a new window
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The Bull’s Head is a little gem, a lost-and-gone pub full of character in a remote cleft of the hilly border country where Powys frowns down on Herefordshire.
A pale sun was trying its best to draw aside the blankets of mist that the Black Mountains had pulled across their shoulders overnight. Celandines and daffodils were struggling out in the roadside verges, chaffinches burbled, catkins hung long and yellow from the hazels – everything spoke of spring just around the corner.
Craswall’s modest Church of St Mary crouched in its ring of trees. Inside, everything was plain and simple – a tiny gallery, beams shaped and bevelled by some nameless medieval village carpenter, hard upright pews. The sunken grassy hollow on the north side was an arena for cockfights not so long ago, and Craswall boys would play fives against the church wall.
We followed a bridleway through sheep pastures, heading north to cross the infant River Monnow in a dell under alders and low-growing oaks. The dogs of Abbey Farm barked us in and out of the farmyard. Down in the cleft beyond, sunk deep into grassy turf banks, lay the silent and time-shattered ruins of Craswall Priory. The Order of Grandmont monks ran it in medieval times with a severe rule and harsh discipline. They could not have chosen a bleaker or more remote spot to build their refuge, or a more beautiful one to a modern walker’s eyes. The curved apse still holds its rough altar, sandstone sedilia and triple piscina complete with stone bowls and drain holes. Over all is a profound sense of peace, and an echo of melancholy.
Up on the ridge we strode out. Suddenly the mist curtain shredded away and a stunning view lay ahead – the great steep prow of Hay Bluff and the upturned boat keel of its long south-going ridge, towering 700 feet above us but completely hidden until now. We stood and stared, entranced, before turning back to follow old green lanes that led down to Craswall over a succession of rushing mountain fords.
START: Bull’s Head PH, Craswall, near Hay-on-Wye, Herefordshire HR2 0PN (OS ref SO 278360).
GETTING THERE: A438, B4351 to Hay-on-Wye. Follow B4350 west out of town; on outskirts, left up Forest Road (‘Capel-y-ffin’). In 2½ miles fork left (‘Craswall 4’). Park at Bull’s Head, Craswall.
WALK (6 miles, moderate, OS Explorer OL13):
With phone box behind you, descend road with Bull’s Head on your right. Just beyond Craswall Church (281363), right off road; immediately left (blue arrow/BA; ‘Monnow Valley Walk’/MVW). Follow BAs along hillside for nearly 1 mile; ford River Monnow (276375); aim across field to far top corner (275378); on through gates to Abbey Farm (274379). Left down drive to Craswall Abbey ruins (273377); on up drive to road (268373). Left; in 300 m, right (271370; ‘bridleway’ fingerpost/BFP). Follow BA and MVW through fields for nearly 1 mile. Through gates, over stile at caravans (257374; BA); on through gate on skyline (255373). On for ¼ mile through 2 gates; at 2nd one (251373, at Brecon Beacons National Park boundary) turn left up end of larch plantation. At top of wood, left along its south side. Pass Coed Major on left (256371), down to cross stream (257369), and follow green lane/path through gates. In ⅔ mile it becomes metalled lane. At gate (268363), right (BFP) for 50 m; left (BFP) on bridleway through gates. In ¾ mile, at post with 2 BAs (278357), left to road; left to Bull’s Head.
REFRESHMENTS: Picnic; or Bull’s Head, Craswall (01981-510616; thebullsheadcraswall.co.uk) – characterful old pub; open Fri+Sat, 12-3, 7-late; Sun 12-3. Parties of 10+ at other times by arrangement.
ACCOMMODATION: Pandy Inn, Dorstone HR3 6AN (01981-550273; pandyinn.co.uk) – lovely friendly pub, fabulous wooden chalet for B&B.
HAY-ON-WYE FESTIVAL: 31 May-10 June (hayfestival.com)
INFORMATION: Hay-on-Wye TIC (01497-820144; visitherefordshire.co.uk)
Readers’ Walks: Come and enjoy a country walk with our experts! Dates, info etc.: http://www.mytimesplus.co.uk/travel/uk/1867/times-walks. Next walks – Lake District, 8 April; Holy Island, Northumberland, 13 May
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2 Responses to “Craswall and Monnow Valley, Herefordshire”
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Dear Christopher,
I am writing to inform you of a fantastic day out we had enjoying a good walk of Craswall & Monnow Valley, Herefordshire ( April 7th 2012). My father had read your article prior to kindly taking our children on holiday ( & treating us to a weekend away on our 11th wedding anniversary!!) nearby in Grosmont & we set off on April 14th with my parents, husband & children.
The children managed the majority of the walk extremely well & what we encountered on route was nature at its best. An abundance of Spring lambs jumping & playing together with very newly born lambs evidenced by wobbly legs, umbilical cords & fresh placenta in the field!! The children were curious to see this!
We came across Abbey farm which was just great. As we arrived the dogs greeted us along with the farmer & his family. We were peering into the barns & saw lambs, cattle & a huge bull. Much to the children’s delight the farmer’s wife came to feed the lambs & brought one out to show them. We were then joined by the dogs & a puppy. We spent a fair amount of time here before trudging around the ruins of Craswall Abbey which was intriguing.
As a family who love the great outdoors this proved a big hit. We saw no one along the route, the views were amazing & best of all it introduces the next generation to an alternative enjoyment to screens, rollercoaster rides & inflated cartoon characters.
I have attached a photograph which my mother took which I think shows the enjoyment we all had that day.
We will be walking with our children for years to come, thankfully encouraged by my parents and reading articles such as yours.
Yours sincerely,
Alexa Elliott
Dear Alexa and Duncan,
What a lovely photo – you obviously had a brilliant family day out. The children won’t forget that lovely little lamb and the nice farmer at Craswall Abbey in a hurry. I hadn’t even thought of that walk as one for children to enjoy, but of course it’s absolutely perfect.
It is always a real pleasure to get a letter like yours. One fires these articles off like arrows into the blue, and it’s a big encouragement to know that one has hit the spot – especially with young children.
Happy walking for many years ahead. And if the children become refuseniks in their teens – they’ll get over it, and will enjoy walking with you even more afterwards – experto credo!
I will pass the letter and photo on to the Weekend Editor for her to consider, but I will certainly post it on my website (www.christophersomerville.co.uk) if you’re quite happy about that.
With good wishes, and many thanks again,
Christopher