Rain and gales over north-east Wales, with the Clwydian Hills bathed one moment in brilliant sunshine, the next in grey showers chased northwards by the wind. First published in: The Times Click here to view a map for this walk in a new window
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We watched the squalls marching through the Vale of Clwyd far below as we followed the broad stony track of Offa’s Dyke Path north along the ridge.
The Clwydian Hills make a hugely popular day out for local walkers; and Moel Famau, at 554m the summit of the 20-mile range, is the natural target with the stump of its ruined Jubilee Tower as an aiming point. Hikers, runners, strollers, dog-walkers, all were out striding the path in the buffeting wind, children running and tumbling in the heather, their parents crunching across the snow banks of last month’s unseasonable blizzards.
The Jubilee Tower was erected in 1810 for King George III’s Golden Jubilee and blown down in a storm in 1862. Its blockhouse foundations sit across the peak of Moel Famau like a double-crowned cardinal’s hat. Up on its walls we found we couldn’t keep our feet – the wind literally pushed us off that hilltop, tears in our eyes, the breath rammed back in our throats. There was time for a glimpse of the snow-streaked crests of the Berwyn Hills in the south, and then we had left the Offa’s Dyke Path and the wind-blasted ridge, and were skeltering down a green hillside into the calm airs of the Vale of Clwyd.
A string of small sheep farms runs north to south in the shelter of the Clwydian Hills. Above Tyn-y-celyn we crossed a fast-running hill torrent, ice-cold from snowmelt, and turned back along a path through sheep pastures. Ewes issued their throaty, peremptory calls to the lambs who came in pairs to look us over, their large ears sticking out and filtering the sun into a pink glow. We crossed a patch of unmelted snow, stamping our boots into the icy crust to get a grip, and went on south above the slate-roofed farms that crouched among shelter trees – Tyddyn Norbury, Bron-y-felin, Fron Goch, Fron Ganol, Fron Bellaf, ringing names to a Saesneg ear.
At Fron Bellaf we crossed a stream where daffodils were still in bud, and took the old green road up over the shoulder of the hill, climbing back towards Offa’s Dyke Path once more. The gale came rushing to meet us, the sky raced from peak to peak, and an old crow’s nest rocked in the fork of a weather-skinned thorn tree, seething to itself in the wind.
Start: Bwylch Penbarras car park, Llanbedr-Dyffryn-Clwyd, LL15 1US approx. (OS ref SJ 161606).
Getting there: Bus – Free shuttle bus from Loggerheads (denbighshirecounytryside.co.uk) in summer
Road – A494 from Mold towards Ruthin. In Llanbedr-Dyffryn-Clwyd, just before church, right up Lôn Cae Glas. Bear left along Lôn y Mynydd to Bwylch Penbarras car park at top of road.
WALK (5 miles, moderate, OS Explorer 265):
From car park follow Offa’s Dyke Path/ODP to Moel Famau tower (162626) and on. In ⅓ mile cross side track in dip (156628); in next dip, left off ODP (152630, fingerpost, yellow arrow/YA). Descend slope, looking to left for marker posts on a clear downward track. Follow it down. At bottom, cross stream (143628); in 200m, above Tyn-y-Celyn farm, sharp left (142627, waymark post) back along wall. Recross stream; on beside wall/fence. In ⅓ mile, YA points ahead (144622), but you hairpin right to cross stile; ahead along drive. At entrance to Bron-y-felin farmyard (144620), left through gate; bear right above and round farm; ahead through field gate and on with hedge on right. Keep same contour above Fron Goch (144616, stile, YA). At Fron Bellaf cross stream; left to cross stile (YA); climb bank ahead. Ignore first green track you cross, and YA pointing right; keep climbing to fence (147612). Turn left here, following fence on green track. In 200m cross stile; up slope for 50m, then left on grassy track, climbing for ½ mile. At top, ignore first stile on right (154609); ahead with fence on right for 200m to cross next stile. Ahead to join ODP (157608); right to car park.
Lunch: Griffin Inn, Llanbedr-Dyffryn-Clwyd (1824-702792; griffinllanbedr.co.uk) – cosy and friendly
Moel Famau Country Park: moelfamau.co.uk
Information: Ruthin TIC (01824-703992); visitwales.co.uk;
www.ramblers.org.uk www.satmap.com www.LogMyTrip.co.uk